China in your hand: discover markets, museums and old neighbourhoods with traditional restaurants, writes Mark Andrews, a former resident who lived in Shanghai for 19 years

One of Shanghai’s nicknames is Paris of the East and, like the French capital, it’s carved in two by a river.

The divide neatly separates old and new, as the gleaming skyscrapers in Pudong on the river’s eastern banks are illuminated at night in an LED symphony.

The cityscape represents Shanghai’s future and that of the country as a whole; when the city developed in the 1990s, the rest of China followed.

Immediately west of the Huangpu lies the architectural splendour of the city’s colonial past, when Shanghai was pulled apart by foreign powers during China’s Century of humiliation which began in the 1840s.

Edifices such as the former HSBC headquarters and the old Customs House line the waterfront. The remnants of historic buildings and traditional shikumen dwellings – terraced homes that blend Eastern and Western styles – radiate out on the streets around them.

Whether exploring east or west, one thing’s for certain: Shanghai certainly likes to entertain.

Three must-see sites

The Bund

If there is one image that has iconified modern-day Shanghai, the Bund is surely it. Although promenades now stretch along both sides of the river, Puxi or the Bund on the west side is the best place to gain a classic view of the city. Here, visitors can gaze across the waterway to Shanghai’s tallest buildings or swivel to see old colonial-era architecture stretching to the west. A walk up to the 117-year-old Garden Bridge to see where Suzhou Creek joins the Huangpu is a must.

Yu Garden

Yu Garden is the best place to buy Chinese souvenirs. While it’s often popular among tourists, persistent shoppers will be rewarded with quintessential views and experiences. A zigzag bridge and the teahouse in the centre of it appears to be the focal point, but those who go beyond into the actual gardens will escape the bustle to find temples balancing on rocky landscapes. Rumbling tummies can be sated with a bowl of soup spurting dumplings in Nanxiang Steamed Bun restaurant – although it doesn’t have the best xiaolongbao in town, it has the most atmospheric location.

Propaganda Poster Art Centre 

An almost surreal foil to the bright lights of modern Shanghai, Propaganda Poster Art Centre is a cross between a museum and a shop. Its posters range from product adverts from Shanghai’s 1930s heyday to more recent propaganda pieces extolling the populace to unite behind the Chinese Communist Party and fight the country’s enemies. During Mao’s China in the 60s and 70s, the flyers were one of the main ways the government communicated with the people, so they hold a historical and artistic interest.

Three places to eat

Budget

Da Hu Chun serves working class shengjianbao soup dumplings which come complete with a crispy fried bottom. A Shanghai institution on Middle Sichuan Road, it is still largely only known by locals who give those who venture in a knowing smile – visitors might end up sharing a table with one. Pork or prawn dumplings with a bowl of beef curry soup comes to around £3.

Mid-range

Visitors have a plethora of restaurants to choose from, but Jianguo 328 nestled in the Former French Concession stands out for its blend of good food, welcoming service, and beautiful decor. Large groups can make a reservation a few days in advance for its signature dish, eight treasure duck, or walk in and try regular dishes such as braised pork. Guests won’t be disappointed.

Premium

The Contemporary French restaurant Mr & Mrs Bund in one of the old Bund buildings might be upmarket, but its views rather than its prices are what will make your eyes water. Many dishes have an Asian influence such as king prawn steamed in a jar with the tart flavours of lemon, orange and pomelo and then dipped in soy sauce. A table overlooking the river is a must.

Get on board

Viking Cruises’ 13-night Coastal Jewels of China itinerary aboard Viking Yi Dun, from Tianjin to Shenzhen via Dalian, Qingdao, Shanghai, Dongtou, Pingtan and Xiamen, departs 19 September 2025 from £6,495pp, including flights.