Few places are home to an interstellar space station, Wizard of Oz museum and bioluminescent waterways – but Cape Canaveral is, writes Sarah Riches
Shaped like a shark’s fin, Cape Canaveral lies on Florida’s east coast, beside the North Atlantic Ocean. A 50-minute drive from its mainland neighbour, Orlando, the area is dubbed ‘the space between,’ as it is nestled between a string of beaches and a NASA space centre.
Long before the cape was a portal to another universe, native tribes were drawn to its fertile estuaries and moderate climate, as evidenced by the mounds of oyster and clam shells they left behind.
Spanish explorers arrived in 1513 and took control for the next 300 years, naming the region after the Spanish word for reedbed. In the 1950s the coastal community’s fortunes changed once more with the construction of Port Canaveral and, as the epicentre of the US and Russian space race, all eyes were on it in the 60s.
Today the cape is home to the US’s second busiest cruise port, after Miami. Those with a day or two to explore will find plenty to keep them entertained.
Three unmissable things to do
Hit the beach
Cape Canaveral is fringed with swathes of silvery sands. Jetty Park Beach is the closest, as it’s just a 30-minute walk to the Royal Caribbean International cruise terminal. Sheltered by a pier and tufts of marram grass swaying in the breeze, the dunes attract nesting sea turtles from March to October, as well as herons, white ibises and pelicans that dive for fish. Visitors can rent bikes or metal detectors from A1A Outdoors or sign up for paddleboarding on boards designed for up to six adults.
Learn about space
Space enthusiasts can admire rockets and delve into US space travel history at Cape Canaveral Space Force Museum. On neighbouring North Merritt Island, visitors can meet astronauts, see the Atlantis shuttle in mid-air and ‘ride’ through the solar system at Kennedy Space Center. They can also experience a simulated launch – which NASA astronauts say is akin to the real thing. The centre’s chief operating officer, Therrin Protze, says his favourite exhibit is The Gantry at LC-39. “It tells the story of NASA’s mission to protect Earth through space exploration and doubles as a viewing location for rocket launches.”
Aquatic Preserve
Established in 1970, this nature reserve is situated in the waterway between the cape and North Merritt Island. As well as being a significant habitat for alligators and diamondback terrapin turtles, the area also claims the largest pelican rookery on the Atlantic coast. Its northern section is home to up to 500 manatees, and there are opportunities to spot herons, egrets and osprey too. Cruise-goers can visit early in the morning or late in the afternoon to increase the chance of seeing wildlife.
Three places to eat
Budget
Rusty’s Seafood and Oyster Bar is a laidback joint with an al fresco terrace at the back that’s perched on stilts above the water. Guests can bag a table on the deck and order plates of scampi, jumbo scallops and snow crab legs, saving space for a slice of key lime pie. Live bands play as diners sit and watch cruise ships sail by while the eagle-eyed can spot for dolphins and pelicans splashing about in the waves.
Mid-range
Neon signs, live bands and surfboards on the ceiling give Grills Seafood Deck an easy-going atmosphere. Whether sitting indoors or on the outdoor deck by the tiki bar, guests can admire the glittering water and docked cruise ships. Founded in 1997, Grills Portside is now one of a trio of similar venues in the region which, as the name suggests, specialise in seafood. Order the chowder, fish tacos or seared tuna over sticky coconut rice.
Premium
Those looking for a fine dining experience can swap the cape’s more casual spots for Heidi’s, which has fresh flowers, candles and white tablecloths. Going strong since 1992, the restaurant in the Cocoa Beach neighbourhood serves traditional Austrian and German recipes, such as breaded chicken escalope with roast potatoes, homemade pork sausage with fermented cabbage, and beef and paprika goulash with spaetzle egg pasta. Desserts are just as classic – think warm apple strudel or Malakoff, an almond cream trifle encased in sponge fingers. For afters, visitors can enjoy a glass of wine and linger in its jazz and blues club.
Local insight
“Jetty Park has a large playground, and you can have picnics, walk on a sandy beach and watch cruise ships in port. You can also see rocket launches and watch Falcon boosters on barges,” says Laura Sargent, space industry engineer.
“Cape Canaveral has local charm and big sustainability goals. My favourite place to eat is the Tiny Turtle, an eco-friendly takeout pioneer that supports local non-profit organisations. It serves the best island cuisine I have had outside of the Caribbean,” says Ashley Britt Chelberg, president of Stella Maris Environmental Research.



