River Focus: Sleigh bells on the Seine
Festive markets, mulled wine and fairy light-lit squares: there’s a lot to love about a yuletide cruise along the River Seine
It’s not what you expect to hear on day one of your first-ever river cruise. “We have a naked trampolining contest scheduled for tomorrow,” the cruise director announces, causing everyone
to break out in raucous laughter.
It’s my first evening on Viking’s Christmas on the Seine itinerary aboard Viking Skaga and everyone’s in good spirits as they sip Champagne and exchange travel stories. Sailing to and from Paris via Vernon, Honfleur, Caudebec-en-Caux, Rouen and Les Andelys, the itinerary encompasses the very best of the River Seine.
I get my first opportunity to imbibe the French capital’s iconic sights on Panoramic Paris at Christmas, an included excursion that takes place on foot and by coach. Ignoring the honk of passing scooters, I crane my neck to admire the Eiffel Tower’s iron latticework glowing in the sunrise.
Our coach makes for the Champs-Elysees Avenue, where shopfronts glitter with Christmas decorations. As we drive past Arc de Triomphe I press my face against the coach window to marvel at the architectural masterpiece. Next, we wander the city’s cobbled streets and come across an Egyptian obelisk.
Our local guide explains that it was a gift from Luxor Temple, and took a staggering six years to get here from its home in North Africa. After a three-course lunch, I hop back on the coach to explore Montmartre, a neighbourhood in the north of the city.
We board a funicular to ascend Montmartre Hill to Sacré-Coeur Basilica, its white domes shimmering in the crisp December sky. The inside of the church is bathed in flickering candlelight as the winter sun streams through stained glass, casting vibrant patterns on the marble floor, while above me the domed ceiling’s 475m mosaic of Jesus Christ dressed in white, arms open is a jaw‑dropping sight.
Midway between Paris and Rouen sits the painterly Normandy town of Vernon, which feels like stepping into a winter dream thanks to its medieval timbered houses, set against dormant hillsides.
However, it’s Vernon’s maze of Christmas market stalls which I declare are my highlight, as I clasp a velvety hot chocolate handed to me by one of the genteel locals. We take part in another included excursion: Vernon by Foot and Organ Recital.
After strolling past an old mill perched precariously on the ruins of a medieval bridge over the Seine, we end our walk at the Collegiate Church of Notre-Dame. Sitting inside the Romanesque and Gothic landmark, beautiful organ music washes over us.
At our next stop, Honfleur, the scent of freshly baked pastries wafts through the air of the café as I sink into a leather booth. In a co-ordinated dance, waiters appear with plates of warm, artfully folded crêpes balancing up their arms before carefully placing them on the table.
I dive in and, as the syrup coats my mouth, I look out of the window at pastel-hued harbourside buildings which reflect a scene straight from a Christmas card. With a belly full of crêpes and mulled wine, I explore Honfleur’s cobbled streets.
Turning a corner into a square, the striking Saint Catherine’s Church, France’s largest wooden church, commands my attention with its façade covered entirely in chestnut shingles.
Caudebec-en-Caux, Rouen and Les Andelys share a rich history, showcased through their architecture, which takes on a festive twinkle in December. Our guide on a Caudebec-en-Caux by Foot excursion helps us envision the half-timbered houses lost to Viking invasions, religious wars and a 1940 bombing.
In a co-ordinated dance, waiters appear with plates of warm, artfully folded crêpes balancing up their arms before carefully placing them on the table
Rouen’s calling card is Notre Dame Cathedral, famous for the ornate gold face of its Gros Horloge astronomical clock. Exploring on my own, I stumble upon the 14th-century abbey where Joan of Arc was sentenced for heresy, a haunting yet powerful site given that she was proven innocent 25 years after her death.
Finally, the Château Gaillard Walking Tour in Les Andelys offers a rewarding climb to a 12th-century fortress built for Richard the Lionheart, overlooking the Seine Valley in all its medieval grandeur.
Onboard Viking Skaga, the festive spirit is in full flow, with three Christmas trees and a gingerbread decorating contest. Classical music plays in the corridor, while the line’s famously moreish freshly baked cookies are available throughout the day.
Stepping into my veranda stateroom, the queen-size bed is a welcome site after a day on my feet. There are several little touches that make my stay more comfortable, from the bathroom’s heated floor to the anti-fog mirror. With a glass of bubbly in hand, I slide open the door to my private balcony – a real treat on a river cruise ship – and enjoy watching the Christmas lights of the Seine’s towns and villages drift by.
Exploring the ship’s four decks, I discover a terrace with a shaded sitting area and padded loungers for warmer days that provides 360-degree views of the river. Walking 10 or so laps of the track makes me feel less guilty about last night’s double helping of dessert.
Speaking of dessert, it’s pleasing to pick from a menu each day that uses local ingredients and recipes. Breakfast is a mix of buffet and waiter service, while lunch and dinner are served by waiters.
One of them explains: “We all trained at the same school in Basel, so you’ll receive the same quality service across all Viking ships.” I particularly like how the dinner menu is split into classic, always-available dishes and regional specialities such as braised duck leg.
Back in the lounge for evening tipples, the cruise director proudly announces that 83 of the 168 guests are repeat cruisers. That’s impressive, though I’m still wondering: who won that naked trampolining competition?
