Once dubbed the French Chicago, Marseille has long carried a reputation for grit. But this sun-drenched port city is now one of the most exciting places in the Mediterranean

Framed by the shimmering Mediterranean and backed by the jagged hills of Provence, Marseille’s coastal charm is undeniable. And while its past as a hub in the global drug trade is part of its story – immortalised in the movie The French Connection – it no longer defines it.

This is France’s oldest city, founded by Greek settlers in 600BC, and its location has always made it different. The port – still the largest in the country – has brought a constant influx of people, goods and ideas. Over time, that’s shaped a city that looks south as much as it does north, with strong ties to North and West Africa, Italy and the Levant.

By the early 2000s, Marseille had slipped under the tourist radar – partly due to its gritty image, partly due to lack of investment. But everything changed in 2009, when it was named the 2013 European Capital of Culture and embarked on the biggest regeneration projects in its history.

The Old Port was pedestrianised and reimagined by Norman Foster, with a mirrored canopy and wide-open walkways. The MuCEM, a bold museum dedicated to Mediterranean culture, rose beside the 350-year-old Fort Saint-Jean. Once-derelict docks in La Joliette were transformed into cultural venues, boutiques and office spaces.

In the years since, Marseille’s appeal has grown with visitors falling in love with its traditional neighbourhoods, like the Panier; the natural beauty on its doorstep, including the Parc National des Calanques; and the lifestyle of a city that has been built on a splendid stretch of the Mediterranean coast.

Three unmissable things to do

Notre-Dame de la Garde

This 19th-century basilica sits on Marseille’s highest point, offering wide views over the city and coastline. Built on the site of an old fort, it’s topped with a 10-metre gilded statue of the Virgin Mary. Locals refer to it as “La Bonne Mère” – the Good Mother – as it is said to watch over the city’s fisherman and sailors. The church is accessible by bus, tourist train or on foot via a steep but very popular walking route from the city centre.

MuCEM

Opened in 2013, the Museum of Civilisations of Europe and the Mediterranean explores how the region’s culture has evolved through migration, trade, conflict and religion. Its permanent collection focuses on anthropology and social history, while temporary exhibitions often feature contemporary art. The building itself, designed by Rudy Ricciotti, connects the 17th-century Fort Saint-Jean with a modern cube structure overlooking the sea, which is linked by footbridges. Entry to the outdoor walkways and fort is free, so a perfect option for multi‑generational bookings.

Calanques National Park

The Calanques National Park stretches across land and sea between Marseille, Cassis and La Ciotat. The limestone cliffs and narrow inlets are accessible by boat tours, kayak or hiking trails, which can be taken independently or with a guide. Swimming is permitted in certain areas, and the park is home to rare marine life, like sea horses, groupers and seabreams, as well as swathes of plants and fauna. However, access to some calanques is restricted in summer due to fire risk, so encourage your customers to check the official website for real-time information before they set out.

Three places to eat

Premium

The city’s only three-Michelin-star restaurant, Le Petit Nice Passedat overlooks the ocean in the Endoume neighbourhood. Chef Gérald Passedat, who specialises in Mediterranean seafood, makes use of many lesser-known local species in his cooking. One of his signature dishes, the bouillabaisse, is a gourmet twist on the traditional Marseille fish stew. Menus are altered depending on the season and reservations are required.

Mid-range

A visit to Marseille isn’t complete without tucking into a plateau de fruits de mer – seafood platter. The content of the platter varies with the season, but you can expect prawns, oysters, scallops and mussels, whelks, sea urchins and more. Visitors won’t struggle finding a restaurant offering seafood. And they can also find kiosks offering takeaway platters to enjoy al-fresco.

Budget

Founded in 1781, Le Four des Navettes bakery near Abbaye Saint-Victor is known for its orange-blossom biscuits shaped like boats. Navettes are dense and dry, traditionally eaten during religious festivals but now available year-round. The bakery is Marseille’s oldest and continues to use a wood-fired oven. Customers can buy biscuits by weight or in gift boxes. It’s worth a stop for something inexpensive and hyper-local.